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Sunbeam Radiant Control Toaster–Repair and Modernization technology connextras



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Sunbeam Radiant Control Toaster--Repair and Modernization

Sunbeam Radiant Control Toaster–Repair and Modernization

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Sunbeam Radiant Control Toaster–Repair and Modernization
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28 thoughts on “Sunbeam Radiant Control Toaster–Repair and Modernization technology connextras”

  1. An important note about grounding the toaster:
    There's some healthy debate in the Internetosphere about whether or not a toaster should be a grounded appliance. And that debate is not without merit. Now that the toaster is grounded, it is potentially more dangerous in the scenario that someone is foolishly sticking a knife down there. If they touch the knife to the wire, and their other hand is touching the toaster, there's now an excellent path to ground through their heart. Not good.

    But, because this toaster is just a circus of exposed metal surfaces with energized wires snaking through it, there are many potential ways for the wiring to short to the chassis, and thus you'd end up with a toaster that can zap you just by touching it.

    So, you've got to decide which risk you're more willing to accept. Personally, given the old and questionable insulation in our T-35 toasters, I'd prefer if the chassis were grounded. I know I'm not dumb enough to stick a knife down a toaster, but I don't know if the chassis might inadvertently become live. Still, I understand the theory behind not grounding a toaster. So, do whatever you like.

    However, if you've got the toaster plugged into a GFCI outlet or on a circuit with an RCD, both potential risks are mitigated by external means. So there's that!

  2. Finally purchased one of these, a T-35 for those curious. $20 at an antique store, a super lucky find. With parts to repair maybe around $30. These instructions are a treat. Thanks Alec!!

  3. Personally, if there wasn't too much risk of damaging the toaster, i would have replaced all the wire inside. also a cable with a grommet to add to the strain relief, Then again that might be easier for us in the UK as cables like that are easier to get.

  4. Even if you decided not to ground the toaster frame (and cutting and blanking off the earth wire), using a 3-pin plug would at least orientate the correct polarity.

  5. The entire time I kept thinking, "MY GOD MAN BRUSH AWAY THOSE OLD CRUMBS!!!!"

    I wonder how difficult it would be to do a full restore on one of these things (replace rusted parts, redo the wiring, full cleanup, etc etc).

  6. I don't super like the cut being outside a strain relief, that gives you another spot where that cord can get strained between the strain relief and the cut sheath…I would say if you're doing this find a strain relief that can properly grab a round cord by the sheath.

  7. Thank god allllmighty you mentioned solder… Tin them.. solid is no biggie… just tin the wires first, do a double hook and loop em together, twist and solder, and heat shrink. You'd have breezed right through that no issues.

  8. You say so little room with the strain realeif but all you have to do it cut you leads way longer than needed, then as you are doing it trim em down to perfect.. Ez stuff. It was fun watching you torture yourself, but hopefully you can learn some tricks to help you out from my being a wire hoarding and lover.

  9. Those crimps are made to go up on the wire sheath a bit. You could also make your life way easier just soldering and heat shrinking… Lol you make your life way harder than it needs to be. Good video tho.

  10. I believe kitchen appliance wires are limited in length so the appliance can't fall or be pulled of the counter while live (by curious little people for example).

  11. Help. 1} The bread sensor wire, when depressed, dose not "CLICK" to
    start the heating process. 2} I removed the 4 sheet metal bolts {one
    with the new ground wire} that freed the front and back panels. Now I
    found 4 rivets holding the end panels fast to the frame preventing me
    access to the bread trigger mechanism above the toast darkness knob.
    Do I drill out the rivets? When done, what are my options to get the
    "ENGAGE" switch to trigger toasting. Thank you

  12. You could use your dremel tool to modify the strain relief by shortening the center piece to allow the cord to overlap a bit and keep the outer insulation inside the base.

  13. Thank you for your video, I was able to replace the cord on a T-20a I just found at a thrift store for only $8! Add the $4 cord and that's a $12 investment that will last for generations! Much appreciated 🙂

  14. I have owned two T20s for quite a few years and they are indeed fantastic appliances.The radiant sensor in particular is responsible for their great performance.I was interested in the comments about grounding and polarisation in the video. The grounding is a matter for debate so I will not comment on that, however I do not believe polarisation is necessary on the early toasters. Using the original cord (which was in fantastic condition) I set up a voltage meter between the body of the toaster and the ground of the receptacle. With the toaster not activated the voltage was 24 V with the plug in one way and idle, and 65 V when toasting. Reversing the plug in the receptacle (as it is non-polarised) produced, as expected, the opposite readings 65 V when idle, 24 V when toasting. I felt that touching the ground and case was safe under the circumstances and in every case the voltage dropped immediately to 1/5 to 1/10 of that, i.e. below 10 V, also no sensation whatsoever of electric shock.
    I must therefore conclude that in neither case does the live conductor come into contact with the metal chassis or a cover and must pass through an element or some point of resistance.
    I am therefore leaving my toaster non-polarised as I believe modifications that you have done by installing a light gauge vinyl insulated appliance cord, and butt connectors that are not meant for that service, produces a more unsafe situation than having left it alone in the first place.
    My conclusion is that as long as everything else is in good condition, the cord, the terminations and the strain relief, putting a polarised plug on is not going to improve the situation.

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